Weather Conditions & Motorcycle Touring
The weather world’s weather is getting screwed up with more and more extremes of abnormal weather. So here’s a brave rough guide to what to expect normally, but if it gets too hot/cold/wet, don’t blame the GT Rider!
There are three distinct seasons in North Thailand.
HOT SEASON
From late February to mid-May, the weather is very hot, dry, dusty, and hazy, with a 20 – 42 Celsius temperature range. If you get sunburned easily, a good sunblock lotion is recommended. A balaclava is also recommended for extra protection, plus it keeps you a lot cooler from the sun.

Keen motorcyclists who like riding in the heat and dust should consider touring during the hot, dry season. March is the arguably worst month for touring, with bad visibility due to smoke from forest fires.

Starting late March – early April, isolated thunderstorms can suddenly appear a couple of times a week and make riding tiring if you get caught on a steep and winding dirt trail in the mountains.
RAINY SEASON
Late May – mid-October, with August & September usually the wettest months. The temperature range is 22 – 35 Celsius. The first regular thunderstorms come in late May and increase in frequency until they become daily from July – September. By mid-late October, the rain stops. In November, there usually are one or two final rainstorms. Keen bikers who enjoy the challenge of riding on muddy roads should consider touring in late September- October.

The rains are usually tropical thunderstorms with a short duration of 1/2 – 2 hours. Once a month, July – September, there is likely to be a period of bad weather, with steady rain for several consecutive days. Unless you like the thrill of riding in the rain on slippery roads, this is an unfavourable time for enjoyable riding.
Rainwear two-piece lightweight waterproof suits are the best protection against the rain in the tropics. Riders should bring their waterproofs as the only available local rainwear – flimsy plastic ponchos – does not provide adequate protection. I do not usually carry my waterproofs from mid-December to January or March.

Rough rain guide – consider this for predicting where the rain’s coming from & where to ride and avoid it. The rain comes from the sea & in North Thailand, that means from either;
- The Bay of Bengal & Burma way = the west-south-west
- The Gulf of Tonkin / China Sea & Vietnam way = east-north-east
So, if there’s a lot of rain around, you need to know where it is coming from – either the West or the East.
- If it’s coming from the west-south-west, then there’s a chance that the further east you go, the less chance of rain. So, if you’re starting from Chiang Mai, head towards the Laos border & Nan to get a dry ride.
- If it’s coming from the east-north-east, then there’s a chance that the further west you go, the less chance there is of rain. So, if you’re starting in Chiang Mai, head west towards the Burma border & Mae Sarieng / Mae Hong Son to get a dry ride.
Look at these satellite pictures to help decide where the rain is coming from.
- Thai Met Office.
- Wet weather storm alerts from the Thai Meteorological department.
- Zoom Earth
I always check these out before I set off on a longish ride, 3-4 days plus ride & worry about where the rain might be coming from. The important thing when looking at the pictures is to see where the rain is coming from – the west or east. Then, make your plan.
The most accurate up-to-date info is from the airport rain radar for use while on the road.
There is a total of 17 rain radars you can check for the country.
For regional rain forecasts, try some of these phone apps.
If want to know whether the Mekong might flood check out the Mekong River water level & floods.
If you want to follow the Mekong River Dams.

In the wet season, many National Parks in Thailand are closed.
In Northern Laos, note that the wet season usually starts earlier and finishes later than in North Thailand. It’s also colder & for “longer” in Laos. I’ve been caught twice in southern Laos in early March & it has been cold with strong cold winds gusting & rain! Most of Laos’ serious rain should come from the east & the Gulf of Tonkin / China Sea & Vietnam way, so keep an eye out that way for incoming tropical depressions & typhoons.

COLD SEASON
November – early February. This is arguably the best time for riding, with the weather cool and dry and clear blue skies providing magnificent mountain views.
The temperature range is 10 – high 20s Celsius, but night time temperatures in the mountains can go as low as 2-5 Celsius. Gloves and warm jackets are necessary riding gear. Note, too, that the daily temperature variation can be 20 degrees Celsius, with cold early mornings & very warm afternoons.
VIEWS
Panoramic mountain views are subject to the local weather conditions. Generally, the best views are just after the rainy season, late October – late January, when the air is cool and dry with crystal clear blue skies. Keen photographers should consider coming in these months.
