Thailand Traffic, Roads & Highways:
GENERAL
There is an excellent up-country network of roads in North Thailand. 90% of the roads, asphalt or gravel, are good.
Traffic is on the left and generally light. It can sometimes be a little heavy near the main towns.
Experienced riders or those used to riding long distances or hours should not have trouble touring.
Inexperienced riders who don’t normally ride a motorcycle, or those without experience riding longer distances/hours, can find the winding mountain roads tiring after a few hours; however, this is all relative to the individual rider’s general fitness and health.
RULES OF THE ROAD
They are not unlike those in the West, but in accident situations, the crucial factor may be which vehicle ran into which vehicle, not necessarily which vehicle caused the accident. The logic is that you should watch where you are going.
Look here for the traffic law.
For some Safe Riding Tips, look here.
For some tips on riding as a group, look here.
SPEED LIMITS
They are lower than those in the West, and the locals generally drive slower. The average speed limit through the towns and villages is 40 KPH, with 90 – 100 KPH the limit on the open roads. These are not strictly enforced, so stay alert, and you’ll stay upright.
Note that if you ride faster than 80 kph, you must pay attention to the road and don’t have time to look at the scenery.
On 4-lane dual carriageways, the speed limit is sometimes higher at 100-120 kph. In practice on the “4-lane supers,” almost anything goes well, which is okay if you’ve got the right bike and are personally capable of riding a higher level. Just remember that the locals are not looking for other vehicles travelling at speed, and so tend not to look too far down the road – you’ve been warned!
DISTANCES
Travelled in a day are not great. First-time tourers should only expect to comfortably ride 150 – 250 km daily if they want to see something. More than this and you need to be riding quite hard, paying attention to the road and traffic, not the scenery, with little time to stop, take photos, and explore. The main reason for the small distances is a slower travel speed. On the winding mountain roads, average speeds are down to 40-60 kph, riding hard! Don’t kid yourself that you can come & ride hundreds of kilometres at speed (120kph +) in a day like you might do in Aussie, the US of A or in the EU.
HOLIDAYS
The roads can be busy during holidays or festival times.
The busiest periods of the year are:
- New Year. Last week December – first week January.
- Chinese New Year. One week, usually late January – early February.
- Thai New Year, Songkran. One week around April 13 – 15.
- Loy Krathong festival. One week around the full moon in November.
- December: the first ten days with holidays on the 5th & 10th, there are often long weekends & Bangkok people take off the short week between the holidays to have an extended holiday driving in the North at the start of the cold season.
These periods are not the best times for touring due to the traffic volume on the road and heavy accommodation bookings.
New Year Warnings: The Western New Year (31st December—1st January) and Songkran (Thai New Year) are terrible times to travel by motorcycle and are not recommended.
Thousands of Bangkokians head for the mountains of North Thailand over the Western New Year. For example, travelling to Pai, 140 km from Chiang Mai, typically takes 2 – 2 1/2 hrs, but on New Year’s, it can take 4-5 hrs, with hundreds of cars on the R1095.
Traffic in the mountains of Doi Inthanon, Doi Ang Khang, Doi Mae Salong, Phu Chi Fah, and Doi Phukha is horrific. At certain times of the day, it is sometimes one way up / down at Doi Inthanon, Doi Ang Khang, and Phu Chi Fah.
- New Year 2023: 11,000 vehicles went up to Doi Inthanon.
- New Year 2023: 317 people were killed in traffic accidents, with 2,400 people injured. Motorcycles were involved in 80.24% of accidents.
At Thai New Year in April, Songrkan & the water festival, the death toll is horrific with thousands of cars & drunken drivers on the road; it is dangerous with buckets of water thrown forcefully, & often purposely, in your face. During both these New Years, hundreds of people are killed in traffic accidents over just a few days! Don’t travel at Songkran – stay home.
- Songkran 2014: 322 killed, 3,225 injured and 2,992 accidents
- Songkran 2015: 364 killed, 3,559 injured and 3,373 accidents
- Songkran 2016: 442 killed, 3,656 injured and 3,447 accidents
Other public holidays, which could also mean busy long weekends, are:
- February / March full moon. Makha Bucha Day.
- April 6th. Chakri Day.
- May 1st. Labour Day.
- May 5th. Coronation Day.
- May full moon. Visakha Bucha Day.
- July 1st. Mid-year bank holiday.
- July full moon. Asahala Bucha Day.
- August 12th. HM Queen’s Birthday.
- October 23rd. Chulalongkorn Day.
- December 3rd. Trooping of the Colours.
- December 5th. HM King’s Birthday.
- December 10th. Constitution Day.
Chinese New Years
- 2023 January 22. Year of the Rabbit.
- 2024 February 10. Year of the Dragon.
- 2025 January 29. Year of the Snake.
- 2026 February 17. Year of the Horse.
- 2027 February 6. Year of the Sheep.
- 2028 January 26. Year of the Monkey.
- 2029 February 13. Year of the Rooster.
- 2030 February 3. Year of the Dog.
Flower Blooming Festivals
Thailand has an abundance of beautiful flowers. At certain times of the year, the local flowers turn on a breathtaking spectacle of colour in certain provinces, which can be busy with traffic.
Watch out for
January
• Wild Himalayan Cherry at Phu Lom Lo, Dan Sai district in Loei province.
• Chrysanthemums at Wang Nam Khiao district, in Nakhon Ratchasima.
• Tulips at the Flower Festival in Chiang Rai.
February
• Yellow blossoms of the Tabebuia Aurea on R3502 from Samchuk – Danchang in Suphanburi.
• Red Lotus blossoms at Kumphavapi, Udon Thani.
• Orchid Tree or Butterfly Tree Festival at Chae Son National Park in Lampang.
March
• Tabebuia Rosea or Pink Trumpet Trees at Kasetsart University, Kampaeng Saen, near Nakhon Pathom.
April
• Golden Shower trees bloom on the way up to Khon Kaen.
• Lakes of Lotus and water lilies at Thale Noi Waterfowl Reserve in Phatthalung.
May
• Bright yellow Habenaria Militaris orchids at Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park in Phitsanulok.
June
• Lotus ponds at Khlong Mahasawat in Nakhon Pathom.
July
Siam Tulip Festival at Thepsathit in Chaiyaphum province.
• Dok Khao Phansa flowers are traditionally offered to monks at Khao Suwan Banphot, Khao Wong, and Khao Phu in Saraburi province.
August
• Golden Sun Hemp flowers at Ramdaeng sub-district in Songkhla.
September
• Dancing blue Dok Ngon Nak flowers of the Phu Soi Dao National Park in Uttaradit.
October
• Wildflowers at Pha Taem National Park in the Khong Chiam district of Ubon Ratchathani.
November
• Sunflowers / Tung Dok Bua Tong bloom in Mae Hong Son province, mainly at Mae U Khor and Mae Ho near Mae Sarieng. Hua Mae Kham in Chiang Rai province also has a combined sunflower & hill tribe festival.
• Desert Cacti bloom at the Nong Nooch Tropical Garden in Chon Buri.
December
• Coffee fields of Chumphon.
• Christmas fields at Phu Rua, Loei.
• Sunflower fields at Khao Chin Lae in Lopburi are at their best.
ASPHALT ROADS
The roads are generally good, and up country, away from the big towns, they are almost deserted.
With the road surface, watch out for changes in the road colour, which might indicate a more slippery surface. Warning signs are seldom posted for sand, oil, or loose stones on the road (and you can’t sue anyone for negligence here.)
With the road surface, watch out for changes in the road colour, which might indicate a more slippery surface. Warning signs are seldom posted for sand, oil, or loose stones on the road (and you can’t sue anyone for negligence here.)
Hot Season – demanding riders should beware of asphalt with a very smooth, shiny black appearance, which can be quite slippery. It is not easy to pick out; it is often present where heavy cornering has occurred, and the road metal has separated from asphalt with a build-up of tyre rubber, leaving a slippery surface. Motorcyclists cornering hard on this surface should be careful not to get into a slide. Also, slow, heavy vehicles often leave oil slicks on the steeper inclines in the heat, so watch out for these, too.
Steep mountain roads – watch out for large rocks left on the road by the drivers of large vehicles. These are often used for putting under the wheels when stopped on a steep slope. I’ve had good personal experience of this, which was costly and painful. The lesson learned – don’t follow too closely behind the vehicle in front of you, or you won’t see the hazard on the road ahead!
After the Wet Season, some asphalt roads are potholed but usually repaired within a few weeks/month.
Cold Season – water seepage can make some asphalt roads damp and slippery. This often occurs in well-forested areas and is noticeable in the mornings, mainly on the Mae Hong Son loop, but it also appears on the main Chiang Mai – Chiang Rai highway (precisely 55 km north of Chiang Mai), as even GTR has been found out. The danger period on R118 is early morning, before 11 AM, before the sun warms the road.
Check out the Top Ten Roads in North Thailand.
DIRT ROADS
Inexperienced dirt riders can find the steep and winding dirt roads tricky. On steep roads, remember it is easier going uphill than down. Excessive use of the front brake can cause you to lock up the front wheel, get into a slide, lose control, and fall off. If you are riding a four-stroke bike, you have the advantage of engine braking. Use this along with the rear brake when descending; staying off the front brake is much safer.
When exploring dirt tracks down a very steep slope, remember that there may not be another way out and that you might have to turn around somewhere on the steep slope and come back out the same way. This may not always be that easy if you are alone. We’ve been caught out before, and it does help to have someone else with you.
Wet Season – dirt roads with mud, water and ruts can be difficult. This is not such a problem at the start of the rainy season, but it can be by the end of the wet (late August – September) when the ground is waterlogged and the roads are very muddy and slippery. Riding in these conditions can be challenging, especially if the steep roads make them very difficult and time-consuming.
Inexperienced dirt riders should note that riding through the puddles, the ruts containing water or on the grassy roadsides can help clean the tyres of mud and sometimes make riding easier.
Dry Season – From late October to November, the dirt roads dry out, first as baked hard mud, ruts, and ridges; then, as the dry weather and heat continue, the surface breaks down, with the roads becoming quite good, smooth dirt for a couple of months (generally December—January).
Don’t ride too close together in thick dust; you can’t see anything, and the dust can quickly clog your bike’s air filter.
Steep, muddy slopes: If you get stuck and need help (a push) from your fellow riders, remember that the last one to ride up gets to watch his mates walk up behind him.
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LICENCES
Officially, Thai or International driving licenses are required; however, most rental shops do not ask for them in practice. A license is necessary to obtain insurance when hiring a four-wheeled vehicle. If you drive without a licence and are involved in an accident, you may automatically be the negligent party. Carry your licence with you to avoid any unnecessary complications. In Chiang Mai, the police are hot with licence checks on foreigners riding motorbikes. The fine is 500 baht & you carry on after paying the fine. It’s best to ride with a licence if you can.
INSURANCE
It is compulsory in Thailand, although some people & vehicles may still not be covered. Comprehensive insurance is available for four-wheeled vehicle drivers, but there is not much satisfactory comprehensive insurance for tourists riding motorcycles.
The best insurance option for rental bikes is here.
Motorcyclists coming to Thailand should consider taking out personal travel/accident insurance before leaving home; this is sometimes free when purchasing airline tickets and tours with certain credit cards.
If you are in Thailand, try these insurance options.
GT Rider also has its group health insurance should you wish to join for 12 months.
FUEL
Fuel is relatively cheap in Thailand and is usually available every 50-80 km. The octane rating is generally 91-95 octane.
Click here for the current fuel price in Thailand
Click here for the current fuel price in Laos.
Click here for the current fuel price in Vietnam.
Click here for the current fuel price in Cambodia
Click here for the current fuel price in Myanmar
