Thailand / Laos Border Notes

Entering Laos

Laos Visa on Arrival is available at these ten border crossings.

  • Chiang Saen – Ton Phueng Golden Triangle.
  • FB4 Chiang Khong – Houei Xai, Chiang Rai to Bokeo Province.
  • FB1 Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge I, Nong Khai-Vientiane Capital.
  • Tha Naleng train station in Vientiane.
  • FB2 Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge II, Mukdahan-Savannakhet Province.
  • FB3 Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge III, Nakon Phanom-Tha Khek Khammouane Province.
  • Dene Savan – Lao Bao, Savannakhet province.
  • Chongmek – Vangtao, Ubon Ratchathani to Champasak Province.
  • Veun Kham – Nong Nok Khian. (Cambodia).
  • Boten – Mohan (China).

eVisas for Laos are available and work only at these border crossings.

  • Wattay International Airport
  • Luang Prabang International Airport
  • Pakse International Airport
  • FB1 Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge Nong Khai / Vientiane.
  • FB2 Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge II Mukdahan / Savannakhet.
  • FB4 Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge IV Chiang Khong / Houei Xai.

Laos has no visa on arrival / no eVisa from January 2020 when entering Laos at these ports.

  • Pang Hok (Phongsaly Province) bordering China.
  • Nam Soy (Huaphanh Province) bordering Vietnam.
  • Nam Kan (Xieng Khouang Province) bordering Vietnam.
  • Lay Lay – Lay Lay bordering Vietnam.
  • Dak Ta Ok – Nam Giang vordering Vietnam.
  • Nam Ngeun (Xayaboury Province) bordering Thailand.
  • Nam Heuang (Xayaboury Province) bordering Thailand.
  • Pang Mone (Xayaboury Province) bordering Thailand.
  • Phu Du (Xayaboury Province) bordering Thailand.
  • Nam Phao (Khammouane Province) bordering Vietnam.
  • Na Phao (Khammouane Province) bordering Vietnam.
  • Savannakhet International Airport.
  • Phou Keua (Attapeu Province) bordering Vietnam.

To enter any of the above ports, get a visa in your passport first!

Source: Lao Visa Online | Lao eVisa Authorization Application

See also: Laos Immigration Checkpoints.

 

1. Friendship Bridge: can sometimes be problematic.

The official policy is that bikes less than 250cc are not allowed across the bridges. This policy was not always enforced, but it seems as if the old rule book has been dusted off again, and in March 2017, smaller bikes, less than 250cc, were not allowed to enter Laos.  If we understand correctly, bikes less than 250cc may be able to cross where there is no bridge – Bun Kan / Pakxan, Chong Mek / Vang Tao, or any of the Xayaboury crossings (if they were open to bikes in Laos.)

Entering Laos at the Friendship Bridge

There are four Friendship Bridges:

1. Nong Khai (T) / Tha Dua (L) FB1
2. Nakon Phanom (T) / Tha Khek (L) FB3
3. Mukdahan (T) / Savannakhet (L). FB2
4. Chiang Khong (T) / Houei Xai (L). FB4

The bridges are all open seven days a week.

Exiting Laos at Savannakhet across the bridge.

Friendship Bridge History: After several years of being open to motorcycles, Lao authorities in Vientiane “closed” the bridge to motorcycles without warning in February 2005. When the two other Friendship Bridges were built, they were instructed to follow the official policy from Vientiane—no motorbikes into Laos across the Friendship Bridge.
The 1st Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai was again opened to bikes in late 2011 and remains open, but the other bridges downstream can still be problematic. Be polite, patient, and firm if you’re trying to enter Laos at either of these bridges.
The 4th Friendship Bridge at Chiang Khong / Houei Xai was opened on 11.12.13 & Thai immigration refused to use the bridge by motorcycle; however, in March 2014, they started letting bikes across the bridge with an escort for 1,000 baht. In 2016, there was a fee of  500 baht. Exiting Laos across the bridge in February 2016, there was a 200 baht fee on the Lao side = it goes up & down a bit, depending on the official. In 2020, there is no requirement for an escort vehicle across the bridge from either side & no extra fees.

Laos: the 4th Friendship bridge border crossing at Houei Xai.

Give the bridges a go if you want—FB4 @ Chiang Khong, FB1 @ Vientiane, and FB3 @ Nakhon Phanom are the best—but if you can’t enter Laos across any of the bridges, you need to use one of the land border crossings. However, the land border crossings are also problematic. There are four land border crossings into Xayaboury and one from Chong Mek to Vang Tao (Pakxe) in southern Laos.
In 2020, you need an entry permit via a tour company to get into Xayaboury province, and at Vang Tao, you need to be at least a five-bike tour group to enter. No one-man tour permits! The situation seems reversed now, and the bridges are easier than the land border crossings.
Another option is to use the Mekong ferry crossing from Bun Kan to Pakxan in Laos. However, there is no visa on arrival at Pakxan. 

The entrance to Pakxan immigration.

After Bun Kan / Pakxan, the next one down is a land border crossing at Chong Mek (Ubon Rachathani ) / Vang Tao (Pakxe L). If it is open you can also use Tha Li -Nakraseng (T) / Nam Heuang—Kenthao (L.) upstream from Vientiane.

Thailand: the Nakraseng border crossing

FB1 Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai:  gets extremely busy on weekends & public holidays with hundreds of vehicles crossing; & if possible, it is better to avoid crossing at these times. If not, it can sometimes take 2 hrs to cross, such are the queues for customs & immigration – on both sides, Thailand & Laos. Good luck & enjoy the wait with your riding kit on – it gets hot! In 2017, the Lao police started collecting 2,000 baht a bike for entering if you did not use an agent & have prior approval to enter Laos. The current status in 2023 is that the Thai customs won’t let you out unless you have prior approval to enter Laos via an agent. The happy agents operating at the FB1 border to provide this service are Lotus Travel Laos and AH Hong Travel. 

With the Friendship Bridges across the Mekong, the problem appears to be the cross-border agreements managing the bridges, where the authorities don’t want to encourage hundreds of local scooter riders to go backwards and forward every day. Once you understand this, it is not so bad, but whatever, please don’t abuse the bridge authorities, as they are only following the policy set by their government bosses.

Ready for a Mekong boat trip with the bikes on board.

2. FB2 Friendship Bridge 2 at Mukdahan / Savannakhet: to cross this bridge from Thailand, you need written approval from the governor of Mukdahan province to exit Thailand across the bridge = you need a tour company permit.  Exiting across the bridge from Savannakhet is not straightforward, whereas the Lao prefer you to hire a pickup to carry your bike across. However, GTR has ridden across this bridge three times from Savannakhet after some lengthy discussions. 

3. The Mekong Boat Trip: The Mekong Boat Trip to Huay Sai—Pak Beng, the Mekong River in this section, is arguably the most beautiful of the Khong between Jinhong in China and Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam. It can be a perfect start / finish to any motorcycle trip in Northern Laos. It is highly recommended that you hire a boat and do the Khong; you won’t regret it. Getting your bike on and off the boat is enormous fun, too. See this second Mekong Boat trip report.

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Loading bikes onto a boat for a Mekong boat trip.

4. Muang Ngern (Hongsa), Laos / Huay Kon (T):  This land border crossing has been problematic entering Laos for years, with numerous hiccups along the way & the border being temporarily closed to bikes on several occasions. Currently (September 2016), it is closed to all motorbikes & bicycles. Exiting is ok. The border crossing was opened initially purely to facilitate construction of the Hongsa power plant, then the rules were relaxed, visa on arrival was available & bikes were let in. However, frequent incidents occurred with groups of Thai bikers, such that the Muang Ngern officials got upset, & every now & again closed the border to bikes. The current 2016 closure seems more serious this time around. So, your next options are Chiang Khong / Houei Xai or the 1st Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai / Vientiane. 

The problematic Muang Ngeun, Laos, border crossing.

5. Phou Doo / Dou: There is a new international land border crossing that goes from Uttaradit in Thailand / Pak Lay (Xayaboury) in Laos. However, there is no visa on arrival entering Laos & you must have obtained a visa from a Lao embassy or consulate beforehand. Exiting from Laos is ok.  Read about a failed GTR entry into Laos via Phou Doo in 2015. BUT Closed to motorbikes – entry & departure – in September 2016. 

 

Laos: Phou Dou border crossing.

6. Nam Hueang – Kenthao (L) / Nakraseng – Tha Li (T). Entering Laos at the new Nam Hueang / Kenthao crossing is a relatively new crossing. This is the most difficult crossing in Laos. In 2020 exit is not permitted, even if you have Kenthao as your designated port of departure on your entry permit! See this GT Rider forum report for more info & photos on this crossing. BUT Closed to motorbikes – entry & departure – in September 2016.

Riding the Mekong between Thailand & Laos in the dry season.

7. Pakxan (L) / Bun Kan (T). Downstream from Vientiane & Nong Khai. No Visa On Arrival. Use this crossing to enter Laos & go to Vientiane when you can’t enter Laos via the Friendship Bridge. Get your Lao visa in advance from the Lao consulate in Khon Kaen.

Laos: the Pakxan ferry crossing to Bun Kan, Thailand.

8. Note Mekong River Crossings by boat: Bun Kan (Thailand) – Pakxan (Laos) is the only ferry crossing left.

A Mekong boat crossing

9. Note Laos Entry: You are normally granted a 1-2 weeks bike entry permit. A maximum of 1 month is possible on arrival but not automatically given; however, you should ask. The overstay fine of 200 baht daily is not always collected when you leave.

The Lao Customs Import form

10. Entering at Houei Xai / Departing Thailand: Newly opened on 11.12.13, the 4th Friendship Bridge was problematic at the start, but in March 2014, they started letting bikes use the bridge for 1,000 baht a bike. Later on, there was no tour fee, but in 2017, a Lao policeman stationed at the bridge started charging 2,000 baht a bike. He continued this until early 2023.
Currently, in late September 2024, there is no 2,000 baht fee for entering Laos @ Houei Xai.

 

The official opening of the 4th Friendship Bridge at Houei Xai – Chiang Khong 11.12.13.

Go here for info on the opening of the 4th Friendship Bridge, plus a report on the first crossing by GT Rider.

GTR first bike across the 4th Friendship Bridge in 2013.

11. Insurance is compulsory when entering Laos, so make sure you get insurance from AGL Insurance. Skip out on the insurance & you could end up on the run & / or be in jail for a while until you can sort out an insurance claim.

AGL is the recommended insurance company to use in Laos.

 AGL is the recommended insurance company to use in Laos.[/caption]

See the GT Rider Laos forum for the latest info on entering/leaving Laos.

Note: Departing Laos for Cambodia at Veung Kham is often problematic, and Cambodian Officials usually refuse motorcycle entry at that spot. Other crossings into Cambodia are also tricky at times. See the GTR Cambodia forum for more information.

Entering Laos History

 

The GT Rider